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Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Also known as: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, HJEs

Overview

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (HJEs) are a unique cosmetic ingredient derived from jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) through a partial hydrolysis process. This process breaks down the ester bonds in jojoba oil, creating amphiphilic molecules that possess both hydrophobic (fatty alcohols) and hydrophilic (fatty acid salts) properties. This dual nature allows HJEs to interact effectively with both water and skin lipids. Primarily used in personal care formulations such as sunscreens, moisturizers, and hand sanitizers, HJEs are valued for their ability to enhance skin moisturization, improve skin feel, and increase the water resistance of products. They act as a fixative and potentiator for other moisturizing agents like glycerin, significantly boosting their efficacy. While research is still in its early to moderate stages, with most studies being small-scale and industry-related, HJEs show promise in improving skin barrier function and hydration, making them a beneficial addition to topical skin care products.

Benefits

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters offer several evidence-based benefits, primarily in cosmetic applications. They significantly enhance the water resistance of sunscreens; for instance, a sunscreen containing 5% HJE demonstrated a 28% higher SPF retention after 40 minutes of water immersion compared to a control without HJE. HJEs also powerfully potentiate skin moisturization, especially when combined with glycerin, leading to up to a 47% increase in skin hydration compared to baseline, which is significantly higher than glycerin alone. Beyond these primary effects, HJEs improve skin feel and hydration in products like hand sanitizers and wipes. Preliminary evidence from a small pilot study suggests potential anti-inflammatory benefits, showing a reduction in inflammatory biomarkers (IL-6) and an increase in barrier protein (filaggrin) expression in individuals with moderate irritant hand dermatitis after 14 days of use. These benefits are particularly relevant for individuals with dry or irritated skin. While the hydration and SPF enhancement effects are statistically significant, their clinical significance beyond cosmetic improvement is still being established, and the anti-inflammatory findings require further large-scale validation.

How it works

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters function primarily through their unique amphiphilic structure, which allows them to interact effectively with both the aqueous and lipid components of the skin. Upon topical application, these molecules integrate into the stratum corneum, enhancing the skin's natural barrier function. They are believed to interact with skin lipids, improving the organization and integrity of the lipid lamellae, which in turn reduces transepidermal water loss and boosts hydration. HJEs can also potentiate the effects of other humectants like glycerin by forming a more stable and effective moisturizing complex within the skin. Furthermore, preliminary research suggests they may modulate inflammatory pathways, potentially reducing inflammatory cytokines like IL-6 and promoting the expression of barrier proteins such as filaggrin, thereby contributing to skin health and repair. Their action is localized to the skin surface with minimal systemic absorption.

Side effects

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters are generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetic and personal care products. Based on available research, no significant adverse effects have been reported. There are no documented common (greater than 5%), uncommon (1-5%), or rare (less than 1%) side effects associated with their use. Furthermore, no known drug interactions or contraindications have been identified. While specific safety studies on pregnant or lactating women have not been conducted, the risk is expected to be very low due to its topical application and minimal systemic absorption. As with any cosmetic ingredient, individuals with known allergies to jojoba or other botanical extracts should exercise caution, though allergic reactions to HJEs are not commonly reported. Overall, the safety profile appears favorable for its intended topical applications.

Dosage

The recommended dosage for Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters in topical formulations typically ranges from 1% to 5%. As little as 1% in a formulation has been shown to potentiate moisturization effects, particularly when combined with glycerin. For enhancing the water resistance of sunscreens, a concentration of 5% has been effectively used. The maximum safe dose has not been definitively established, but cosmetic applications generally do not exceed 5%. HJEs are applied topically as part of lotions, sunscreens, hand sanitizers, and wipes. The timing of application depends on the product's intended use, with moisturization effects lasting at least 4 hours post-application. For benefits related to skin barrier improvement or anti-inflammatory effects, repeated daily use over several days or weeks (e.g., 14 days for barrier markers) is necessary. The efficacy of HJEs is influenced by the overall formulation vehicle, as it impacts absorption and interaction with the skin.

FAQs

Is Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters safe?

Yes, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters are generally regarded as safe for topical use in cosmetic products, with no significant adverse effects reported in available studies.

Does it improve skin hydration?

Yes, it significantly enhances skin moisturization, especially when formulated with glycerin, leading to a notable increase in skin hydration.

Can it improve sunscreen effectiveness?

Yes, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters improve the water resistance of sunscreens, helping to maintain SPF levels even after water exposure.

Is it effective for skin irritation?

Preliminary evidence suggests it may reduce inflammatory markers and improve barrier function in mild hand dermatitis, indicating potential benefits for irritated skin.

How long do effects last?

Moisturization effects can last for at least 4 hours after application. Benefits related to skin barrier improvement or anti-inflammatory effects typically require repeated use over several days or weeks.

Research Sources

https://www.cargill.com/doc/1432223355105/poster-18.pdf – This controlled formulation study investigated the impact of 5% Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (HJE) on sunscreen performance. The findings indicated that HJE significantly increased the water resistance of sunscreen, maintaining SPF 15 after 40 minutes of water immersion, demonstrating its efficacy in enhancing product durability.
https://www.cargill.com/bioindustrial/doc/1432222918058/poster-01.pdf – This small clinical pilot study, involving 6 patients with hand dermatitis, explored the effects of a hand sanitizer containing Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters. After 14 days of use, the study observed a reduction in inflammatory biomarker IL-6 and an increase in filaggrin, suggesting potential anti-inflammatory and barrier-improving effects.
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/cosmetic-ingredients/moisturizing/article/21836557/hydrolyzed-jojoba-esters-to-potentiate-glycerin-moisturization – This controlled cosmetic efficacy study demonstrated that Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters effectively potentiate the moisturizing effects of glycerin. The study found that combining HJEs with glycerin led to a significantly higher increase in skin hydration (up to 47%) compared to glycerin used alone, highlighting its synergistic moisturizing capabilities.