Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Also known as: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, THD Ascorbate, Vitamin C ester, Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative
Overview
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate) is a synthetic, oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C designed for topical application in skincare. Unlike L-Ascorbic Acid, THD Ascorbate is lipophilic, enhancing its ability to penetrate the skin barrier and remain stable in formulations. It is primarily used in anti-aging and skin-brightening products, as well as treatments for hyperpigmentation, such as melasma and photoaging. THD Ascorbate delivers antioxidant protection, stimulates collagen synthesis, and improves skin pigmentation. It is chemically derived from ascorbic acid to improve skin delivery and stability. It is favored for its low irritation potential, making it suitable for sensitive skin. Research on topical vitamin C supports its efficacy, although specific high-quality trials on THD Ascorbate are fewer and often involve combinations with other active ingredients.
Benefits
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate offers several evidence-based benefits for the skin. Clinical studies have demonstrated improvements in skin tone evenness and firmness; one 12-week RCT showed that 93.5% of participants experienced increased skin tone evenness, and 83.9% had improved skin firmness using a 30% THD Ascorbate lotion. It also reduces hyperpigmentation, with an open-label trial on melasma patients showing a 33.7% average reduction in hyperpigmentation after 12 weeks. Systematic reviews support its efficacy in reducing signs of photoaging, such as wrinkles and pigmentation. Secondary benefits include antioxidant protection against UV-induced damage, stimulation of collagen synthesis, reduction of fine lines, and skin brightening. These benefits are particularly noticeable in adult women with photoaged skin or melasma and are suitable for sensitive skin due to its low irritation potential. Noticeable improvements are typically observed after 8 to 12 weeks of consistent topical use.
How it works
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate functions through several key biological pathways. As a potent antioxidant, it neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV exposure, reducing oxidative stress. It promotes collagen synthesis by stabilizing and enhancing proline hydroxylase activity, which is essential for collagen production. Additionally, it inhibits melanin synthesis by interfering with tyrosinase activity, thus reducing hyperpigmentation. Due to its lipophilic nature, THD Ascorbate effectively penetrates the stratum corneum, delivering ascorbate intracellularly where it exerts its antioxidant and enzymatic cofactor roles. Its molecular targets include tyrosinase (melanin synthesis), proline hydroxylase (collagen synthesis), and reactive oxygen species (oxidative stress).
Side effects
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is generally well-tolerated with a low risk of irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Common side effects are minimal, with occasional mild skin irritation or redness reported rarely (less than 5% of users). Uncommon side effects, occurring in 1-5% of individuals, may include mild dryness or transient redness, particularly in those with highly sensitive skin. Significant adverse events are rare, with no major side effects reported in clinical studies. There are no known systemic drug interactions due to its topical application and minimal systemic absorption. It is contraindicated in individuals with known hypersensitivity to vitamin C derivatives or any of the formulation's excipients. While considered safe for adult women, there is limited data on its use in children or pregnant women, so caution is advised.
Dosage
For topical application, a concentration of 20-30% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is generally considered effective and well-tolerated. Clinical studies have shown efficacy using a 30% concentration in topical formulations. There is no established maximum safe dose, but higher concentrations may increase the risk of irritation. Twice-daily application is recommended for sustained benefits, with consistent use over 8-12 weeks necessary to achieve visible results. THD Ascorbate is best formulated in oil-based serums or lotions to maintain its stability and enhance skin penetration. Its oil solubility enhances skin penetration, and the formulation's pH and vehicle can affect its stability and delivery. It is often combined with other antioxidants, such as vitamin E, and sunscreens to enhance its efficacy and provide comprehensive photoprotection.
FAQs
Is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate better than regular vitamin C?
Yes, it is more stable and oil-soluble, allowing for better skin penetration and less irritation compared to traditional ascorbic acid.
How long until results appear?
Visible improvements in pigmentation and skin texture typically appear after 8-12 weeks of consistent use.
Can it be used with sunscreen?
Yes, combining it with sunscreen enhances both protection and the overall efficacy of the skincare routine.
Is it safe for sensitive skin?
Yes, it has a low irritation potential and is generally considered suitable for sensitive skin types.
Does it work alone or only with other actives?
It is effective alone but may provide enhanced benefits when combined with other antioxidants or retinoids.
Research Sources
- https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.15748 – This systematic review on topical vitamin C, including derivatives, supports its efficacy in treating melasma and photoaging. The review highlights improvements in pigmentation and skin texture, noting that while specific data on tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is limited, the available evidence is promising. The study suggests that topical vitamin C formulations can be effective in addressing various skin concerns related to aging and pigmentation.
- https://www.paulaschoice-eu.com/tetrahexyldecyl-ascorbate/ingredient-tetrahexyldecyl-ascorbate.html – This resource provides information on tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate as a skincare ingredient. It details its benefits, such as antioxidant properties and skin-brightening effects. The information is useful for understanding the ingredient's role in cosmetic formulations and its potential benefits for the skin.
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamin_C – This Wikipedia article provides a general overview of Vitamin C. It covers its chemical properties, biological functions, and various forms. While not specific to tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, it provides a broader context for understanding the role and importance of Vitamin C in skincare and overall health.
- https://dryskinlove.com/blogs/news/benefits-of-tetrahexyldecyl-ascorbate-for-dry-skin – This blog post discusses the benefits of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate for dry skin. It highlights its moisturizing and antioxidant properties. The post suggests that tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can be particularly beneficial for individuals with dry skin due to its oil-soluble nature and ability to penetrate the skin effectively.